So, you’ve got your coat that needs a new lining and you have some pins, a needle, some lining fabric and thread to match and a pair of scissors. What now?
Well, now we take some measurements and make some decisions.
See the coat above with the measuring tape on it – you need to measure the width of the lining of the coat you are working with as it is now. As you see from the photo above, you will only be measuring the lining itself, not the facings, which is the green and white printed fabric between the lining and the outer edge. In this case, the lining width is 43”.
Here is the way you figure out how to deal with your fabric:
Lining width: 43”
Turn-over at each edge: 1” ea. Edge = 2”
Pleat in the center of the back of the lining = 2”
Total = 47”
What this means is that if you got 45” wide lining fabric, you will not have enough fabric to go across the whole body of the coat unless you hit a seam someplace. Some people seam in the center, under the pleat. I do this a little bit more ‘commando’ style and start at one side seam and go as far as I can so that I don’t end up with a lot of waste. (more…)